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Wednesday, April 25, 2007

possibly the most amazing fruit in the world

My quest is over. I've finally found the legendary Australian fingerlime (microcitrus australasica)!!! When you bite, the tiny, round vesicles of pulp have the same texture as caviar, and taste like a super fresh and acid lime. Incredible. I was lucky enough to find a couple of seedlings. They now rest in fresh soil and big clay pots, under the unforgiving Southern Californian sun. Hopefully they'll yield fruits within the next 12 months. Yowza!

I also tried the limequat (citrus fortunella), which nearly knocked me out.

This is all thanks to Dr. Kahn, who is the Principal Museum Scientist and curator of the University of California Riverside citrus collection (you can find more info there). The LA Times has a nice story about her and the citrus experiment station.



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Friday, April 20, 2007

latest polls and 1st round predictions

OK, there's a weird poll out there done by an outsourcing shop in Tunisia (see it here and here), that gives Royal at 25% and the three others (Sarko, Bayrou and Le Pen) between 17% and 20%... I don't buy it - their assumption is that Le Pen will draw a lot of voters away from Sarkozy. I don't think so. But then again, we might be in for a huge surprise on Sunday. It would not be the first time the pollsters are so completely wrong...

Of note: there's been a slight uptick in Royal contracts at Intrade.com - perhaps this is a harbinger of a 1st round shocker. Intrade is pretty good (and still gives Sarkozy as the likely winner by an impossibly high margin.)

I will make a prediction for the record, and for the hell of it:
Sarko: 29%
Royal: 24%
Bayrou: 17%
Le Pen: 17%

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Holocaust survivor dies in Virginia Tech Massacre

That is a tragic and incredibly powerful story (from AP):

"JERUSALEM (AP) - Liviu Librescu survived the Nazi Holocaust. He died trying to keep a gunman from shooting his students in a killing spree at Virginia Tech - a heroic feat later recounted in e-mails from students to his wife.

Librescu, an aeronautics engineer and teacher at the school for 20 years, saved the lives of several students by using his body to barricade a classroom door before he was gunned down in Monday's massacre, which coincided with Holocaust Remembrance Day. His son, Joe Librescu, told The Associated Press on Tuesday that his mother received e-mails from students shortly after learning of her husband's death.

"My father blocked the doorway with his body and asked the students to flee," Joe Librescu said in a telephone interview from his home outside of Tel Aviv. "Students started opening windows and jumping out."

I think that qualifies as heroism.
Godspeed to you Prof. Librescu.

polling trends



French elections - new polls, new predictions

Two polls released today yield a tie between Royal and Sarkozy in the runoff election. Is that realistic? Is that possible? Should Royal supporters rejoice? I am not a polling expert, but from what I understand, trends matter more than actual poll numbers. In that regard, there seems to be a slight uptick in favor of Royal in the past week or so. It is hard to say if this is noise or a key reversal. If anything, it points to the inability of the polling outfits to figure out France's electorate. Libération pins this volatility on the "popular classes" which are usually much less engaged in politics, and therefore much less likely to identify with a party (let alone an ideology).

Let's take a quick look at the numbers (summary of the CSA poll here - the changes are compared to the previous CSA poll).

1st round

Sarkozy: 27% (+1)
Royal: 25% (+2)
Bayrou: 19% (-2)
Le Pen: : 15,5% (+0.5)
Other left-wing: 10,5% (+0.5%)
Other right-wing: 3% (-0.5%)


2nd round

Sarkozy: 50%
Royal: 50%

Sarkozy: 46%
Bayrou: 54%


The way the get to that result is mystifying. If you add Royal+left-wing+1/3 Bayrou, she's still stuck at around 41%. If you assume 1/2 of Bayrou's voters come from the Socialist Party, then she's at around 44%. Again, the only way Royal pushes Sarkozy into a close race is if she makes a serious dent in Le Pen's constituency (the 15.5% is I think somewhat underweighted, perhaps by 2%). Possible, but unlikely.

Most other polls (including one released today/wednesday in Paris) give a 51/49 in favor of Sarkozy. So it all points to tightening of the race. The key for Royal will be to score very well in the first round, so as to create a sense of momentum in public opinion.

I don't see how Bayrou gets to the second round. The numbers and the trend are pointing to a third-place finish. The real question is whether he will negotiate something with the Socialists or fall back to his no-no position (which would be the same as tacitly endorsing Sarkozy). One should remember that his party - however tiny - largely depends on right-wing voters and the UMP apparatus. If he goes in with Royal, a lot of his party members will be in danger of losing their seats in Parliament (especially if Sarkozy wins : the knives will be drawn, and whatever is left of the UDF will be on the chopping block). On top of that, what can he negotiate? They will need to present a governing platform and campaign together. Somehow, it doesn't seem possible. The Socialist party hacks won't stand for that - they'd rather lose than having to deal with Bayrou as prime minister and Royal as President for 5 years. That would not necessarily be a bad scenario for France, though. Bayrou is an honorable guy.

Intrade.com still predicts a Sarkozy win by a wide margin. I'd guess the 1st round will dramatically readjust the numbers.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Sarkozy will win

At this point, with 10 days left before the 1st round, I don't see how the other candidates can turn things around. I am calling a Sarkozy win. It's not taking a big risk to predict that. He just played it too well : I mean this is a guy who says idiotic things every other day, and manages to get credit for them. And underneath the rhetorical flourishes, he's going to pardon Chirac and try to systematically destroy what is left of France's redistributive policies. It does not mean it will succeed, but... The funniest part is that all the ploucs and petits blancs who are going to vote for him out of "exasperation" as he said, are the ones who are going to suffer most from his neo-liberal policies. This marks the beginning of something (we got hints of it in 2002) : just like in the United Sates, the French lower classes now vote against their very own interests.

It is very sad indeed that it all proceeds from a gross misrecognition of France's real problems. I believe they are more institutional than social. The French can and do compete very well in the globalized economy. As in many other developed countries, the bottom 20% seem to be left behind and the government no longer seems interested in promoting proactive policies to retrain and retool. That is an expression of who really "owns" the State and the levers of power, so to speak. The top quintile is doing very well and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future. Strong euro, climbing stock market, shrinking taxes, cheap health care and cheap world-class education. What's not to love?

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Enough with the freaking folklore!

I mean what the hell!!!??? Another horrible orientalist article by the NYTimes. Please. A bunch of monks singing in Latin (which, by the way, indicates that these particular monks belong to the ultra-reactionary side of the Catholic Church).It's set up like a freaking Pagnol piece. "Men of another age." The wonderful traditions. The heritage. The cute locals. Blah blah blah. Who cares? Why waste the ink and/or the bandwidth on such contrived and atmospheric articles? I mean how doest that tell us anything of substance about contemporary France? Nothing. 40% of French don't believe in anything. Another 30% or so declare themselves agnostic. 20% attend religious services regularly (that is, more than 4 times a year or so).

Yet another drive-by article that reveals more about America's obsession with identity and authenticity and old stones.

Addition: there's even worse - two for the price of one.

Monday, April 9, 2007

Sarkozy on pedophilia and genetics

More funny bits from Nicolas Sarkozy. I'm translating his remarks in Philosophie Magazine - yes, there is such a thing in France, and better yet, it has a readership large enough for the Sarkozy PR machine to actually send the boss for an interview. (As an aside, I wonder who are Philosophie Magazine's main advertisers : Patek Philippe? Viagra? Prozac? tour operators specializing in swingers?)

So here's what Sarkozy said to Michel Onfray. The interviewer is a somewhat famous French author - if you can imagine a male cross between the two Marthas (Stewart and Nussbaum). He's the kind of celebrity who utters weighty platitudes without a shred of self-doubt, and wraps them in what passes for elegance in the age of mass consumption. I guess he made Sarkozy feel well at-ease.

But, without further ado, straight from the horse's mouth (my translation):
"For my part, I am inclined to think that one is born a pedophile, and that it is a real problem that we do not know how to cure that pathology. There are 1200 or 1300 youth who commit suicide every year in France, it is not because their parents did not take good care of them! But because, genetically, there is a fragility, a preexisting pain (...) Circumstances are not everything, the role of what's innate is immense."

Besides the slightly comical bit on heredity and criminal pathology, which betrays a complete ignorance of even the most basic notions of modern genetics, I think the important point has to do with his critique of what he calls "circumstances." For a neo-liberal like Sarkozy, the link between criminality and social conditions must be severed at all costs. Because otherwise, the logical next step to reduce criminality is to promote and implement redistributive policies. Hence his critique of circumstances. Hence his not-so-subtle racialization of criminality (which also betrays a complete ignorance of population genetics, and a primitive understanding of phenotypical variations among humans). To Sarkozy, one does not become a pedophile or a suicidal teen or a petty criminal because of circumstances. Therefore, allocating resources to correct and transform "circumstances" is a huge waste of governmental monies. Sarkozy tried to pass a law last year that would mandate monitoring unruly kids in schools, in order to detect supposed criminal predispositions. This is true.

In a sense, Sarkozy adheres to the worst of sociobiology. He does not believe that government can alleviate social ills. In fact, he does not believe that there is a such a thing as socially-determined pathological behaviors. I'd bet that he'd have agreed with old Maggie Thatcher when she claimed that she did not know what society was.

Finally, Sarkozy's predisposition to privilege inherited traits is perfectly consistent with his political philosophy. He believes in Burke's "old customs and traditions." He believes in the "innate." He believes in abolishing the inheritance tax.

He asked for it!

Yesterday, Jean-Marie Le Pen declared himself the candidate of the "terroir," as opposed to Nicolas Sarkozy, a "candidate who is coming from immigration." Charming.

This raises many questions for Sarkozy. After spending so much time and energy pointing fingers at immigrants, Sarkozy must now address the fact he himself is the son of an immigrant. This in fact is a golden opportunity for him : at first he can highlight that he is the living proof that the children of immigrants can succeed in France. And then he can also hint that while the son of an immigrant, his father was not "that" type of immigrants, times were different etc etc... This is virulent, and will certainly get him jeers on the left. But it's tactically correct if he wants to attract Le Pen's voters. Sarkozy is not one to shy away from political controversy - in fact, much like G.W. Bush, he thrives on it. Every other day he says something outrageous, that blurs the campaign's narrative and throws off his opponents (the ministry of immigration and national identity, the pedophilia gene, et. al.)

For now, his lieutenants are screaming that they are shocked, shocked at Jean-Marie Le Pen's remarks. That's the first phase. Next, Sarko himself will intervene.

the Prez digs alternative fuels

Read the article - it's pretty funny.
Plug it in, fire it up, Mr President.


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Saturday, April 7, 2007

new poll

In the latest poll (to be published tomorrow by the Journal du Dimanche), Nicolas Sarkozy is rising. Here are the numbers (IFOP/Journal du Dimanche):

First round :

  • Sarkozy : 29.5% (+2 - compared to the last IFOP poll)
  • Royal: 22% (-1)
  • Bayrou: 19% (-1)
  • Le Pen : 14% (=)
  • Left-wing residuals (including greens) : 12.5% (=)
  • Right-wing residuals : 2.5% (-0.5)
Second round :
  • Sarkozy : 54% (+2)
  • Royal : 46% (-2)
Royal is stuck. Even in the unlikely event that she captures 1/2 of Bayrou's votes and all the left-wing vote besides her own, she's still at 44.5% in this poll. Sarkozy manages to attract most of Le Pen's voters, plain and simple. He was quoted in yesterday's Le Monde as a saying that he believes the election will be decided on the right. So far, the numbers bear out his analysis. Of course he will always be better at deploying right-wing, I-love-France, law-and-order, tough-on-crime discourse than Royal.

A friend of mine was noticing that none of the mainstream is really talking about the Banlieues. As a matter of fact, only Le Pen is addressing the Banlieues. He pulled a stunt yesterday by going to Argenteuil, described by the New York Times' Elaine Sciolino as an "ethnic enclave." Woooooo. Be afraid. Be very afraid.

In reality, Argenteuil is a somewhat diverse town, with a cute little center by the Seine - painted by Monet and the impressionists. I've been there in the past. It's like most small towns outside of Paris : not much going on, but cute. There are a bunch of housing projects on the outskirts. Argenteuil's location in the Northwest of Paris indicates that it is fact a somewhat wealthy suburb, where the contact between the well-off and the poor tends to create more frictions than in more socially homogeneous places (think Neuilly and Saint-Denis on both ends of the spectrum). So Argenteuil, "ethnic enclave?" Only by a gross editorial stretch of the imagination. Come on Sciolino! Don't be that lazy! And stop listening to your fixer, Ariane Bernard, who is obviously repeating the talking points of Sarkozy's UMP.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

back of the envelope calculations (II)

A new CSA poll to be published tomorrow by Le Parisien/I-télé shows the following results :

  • Sarkozy : 26% (=)
  • Royal : 23% (-1)
  • Bayrou : 21.5% (+1.5)
  • Le Pen : 16% (+1)
  • Residual left-wing candidates : 8.5%
  • Residual right-wing candidates : 2.5%
These results do not seem to significantly alter our previous assessment. If you split Bayrou's support 60%-40% in favor of Sarkozy, it still leaves Sarkozy's second round support (without Le Pen) in the vicinity of 42%. The same goes for Royal. Both still need to appeal to the National Front first round voters, and therefore cannot really change their strategy.

The only potential wild-card is a resurgence of Bayrou. If he resumes his upward trend, he might very well be Sarkozy's adversary in the runoff election. In which case he will most likely win. To achieve that he needs to chip away at Ségolène Royal's base. It is quite possible, as long as he continues to appeal to the college-educated professionals who usually vote for the Socialists. He must remind them of Royal's courting of the lower-class angry vote. He must call upon their self-representation as enlightened, moderate, rational and urban. A socialist member of Parliament said the other day that he would turn off the TV, plug his ears and vote for Ségolène Royal. Many voters on the left feel the same. To close the deal, Bayrou needs to convince them that he is truly one of them. For instance, he said today that Sarkozy's campaign strategy is to deliberately "pit people against one another." He also expressed the view, in today's Libération, that France's main problem stemmed from the fact that the "the country is run by guys from privileged families who won an academic competition at age 20." See my post on that topic. Even though, as François Hollande bitingly remarked, Bayrou plays the traveler without baggage, I can't help but like the guy. Expect more straight talk on his part in the final two weeks of the campaign.

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

The Vice's undisclosed location

So funny... The Vice is hiding in the Bushes...


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Tuesday, April 3, 2007

French election predictions : back of the envelope calculations

As it stands today, here's the latest IPSOS poll with a chart. As of today we have:

  • Sarko (de Nagy-Bocza) : 31.5%
  • Ségolène Royal : 25%
  • François Bayrou : 18.5%
  • Jean-Marie Le Pen : 13%
  • residual candidates : 12%
According to the polling data, 13% have not expressed any opinion. A few things:

  1. No way Le Pen is at 13%. Probably more by 2 or 3 points. Historically, Le Pen has underpolled because respondents do not readily disclose their predilection. One expects pollsters to correct for that bias, but still.
  2. This week's Economist suggests that a good 5% of Sarkozy's declared supporters will in fact vote for Le Pen. While I don't believe that it is that high, it still should lower Sarkozy's 1st round score by a couple points.
  3. Bayrou is out. Historically, Bayrou's natural constituency is made up of Christian Democrats and provincial notables. It accounts for basically 9% to 12% of the electorate. They will vote for Sarkozy in a runoff, even holding their nose - they always do. The remaining 6%-8% will most likely go to Ségolène Royal in the runoff.
  4. So currently Sarkozy's safe votes add up to about : 29.5% (31.5% - 2% of Le Pen voters) + 12% (Bayrou) + 2 % (residuals like de Villiers and the Fishermen and Sportsmen guy) = 43.5%
  5. Ségolène Royal's safe votes add up to : 25% (declared) + 6% (from Bayrou) + 7% (residual Trotskysts, Greens and anti-globalization) = 38%
  6. Conclusion : as of today, Sarko and Ségo are basically tied.
Any way you look at it, both candidates need Le Pen votes to win. Hence the recent populist racist/patriotic hysteria. That is all there is to it.

The presidential election will be decided at the margins. Right now, Sarkozy de Nagy-Bocza is doing all the right things to take the prize.

Sarkozy de Nagy-Bocza and French national identity

The point of the previous posts was to lay to rest some of America's most orientalizing narratives about France. It is important to convey the notion that no, life is not so rosy in France, especially if you don't live in the heart of Paris. You just have to take the RER (the commuter subway line) 5 stops away from the city limits, and you'll basically be transported into an alternate reality. In fact, the next time you fly to Paris, pay attention to the landscape when you ride the B line from Charles-de-Gaulle to St-Michel-Notre-Dame. You will see industrial wastelands, beat out 1930's red brick warehouses, immense housing projects from the late 1940's whose windows are dotted with satellite dishes (usually tuned in to Arabsat2B on the C-Band - for all the sat geeks out there). You will also pass by the Aulnay-sous-Bois station. This is the site of an old Peugeot factory.

This is how the dots connect : throughout what a famous local economist called the "trente glorieuses" (referring to the thirty years of economic boom that followed the end of World War II), French industrialists recruited many workers from the vast reservoir of the colonial empire. When the empire collapsed in the late 50's, French industrialists kept on with their policies of "inviting" workers from France's former dominions. Many of these workers were employed in construction (famous all around the world for its reliance on day laborers), as well as in many jobs that French people did not want to fill (for instance, Parisian trash collectors are overwhelmingly from Mali). Many were also recruited by car manufacturers, who used to run enormous assembly plants in the immediate vicinity of France's largest market, Paris. Citroën on the Quai de Javel in Paris and in Aulnay-sous-Bois (now operated by Peugeot), Renault in the Billancourt Island and Flins. The French industrialists did exactly the same as they had for their previous generation of employees: they settled the guest workers close to the production sites. The same thing happened in Lyon, with the chemical industry, or in the North with the steel industry, as well as in the many other regions of France where large numbers of workers were needed. And it's not that the French did not want to work, or did not care for factory jobs - no, it was mainly a demographic issue. In the 1950s and early 60s, as a result of two world wars in twenty-five years, France was basically shorthanded. Importing workers from North and Sub-Saharan Africa was the only practical solution. And so it came to be that ironically, the French boomers came of age at the tail-end of the 30-years long growth cycle.

These immigrants from Mali, Senegal, Niger, Congo, Algeria, Tunisia and Morocco are the unsung heroes of post-war France. (They're also the unsung heroes of the Free French Forces - without the African soldiers, de Gaulle would have achieved nothing - but that's another story.) They are the ones who rebuilt the French industrial machine, and kept it humming well into the 1970s. They are the ones who took the worst jobs, the most dangerous and exploitative jobs. They are the ones who sweep the streets and collect the garbage. They are the ones who open their stores on Sundays. They are the ones who suffered from brutal police repression during the Algerian war (let's not forget the massacre of October 1962, where for weeks dead and disfigured bodies were found floating downstream). They are the ones, along with their children, who are currently being singled out as not French enough by Nicolas Sarkozy, the big-business conservative candidate for President.

So this is the background, and why in France it is such a stigma to be from the suburbs. In the 1970s, industrial jobs started their slow and painful exodus. In 1974, the deliverance of work permits to foreign low-skill workers was discontinued. Only the families of those already in France were allowed to join them. One wonders, if this policy based on basic human decency is what Sarkozy alluded to when he spoke yesterday of an "uncontrolled immigration policy since 30, 40 years." Or was he referring to these guest workers who rebuilt France, while living in abject conditions of poverty, exploitation and alienation? Or was he referring to their contribution to post-war France, when he stated in Nice a few days ago that French colonization had not been such a bad thing after all... And by the way - oh, the humanity! - Sarkozy is himself the son of a Hungarian aristocrat who found refuge in France after the war. Nicolas Sarkozy's real name is Nicolas Sarkozy de Nagy-Bocza. Straight out of a Harlequin romance. And pretty funny, considering that Sarkozy de Nagy-Bocza wants to establish a Ministry of Immigration and National Identity. Vos Papiers! as the French copper say to the immigrant...

Deindustrialization and the neo-liberal turn are at the root of the revolt of November 2005. Back in the 70s and 80s, many of the guest workers lost their jobs. Those who were lucky enough to keep their jobs quickly found out that it would not be so for their kids. The dwindling demand for low-skill labor, combined with the rapid retooling of the French economy into a service-based economy, led to profound social unrest. Those of the French baby boomers with low skills, now in their most productive age, ended up competing for the same low-paying jobs as the first- and second- generation laborers of foreign heritage. This is still going on nowadays, and explains in part the xenophobia of the French lumpen, as well as the enduring success of that slightly ridiculous character, Jean-Marie Le Pen.

The most recent inflexion in the current electoral campaign derives directly from this rather unfortunate situation. The low-skill French population is being divided and parceled out into competing, targeted constituencies. Post-modern identity politics for the cynical politician. Sarkozy's rhetorical turn towards not-so soft racism is a direct appeal to those low-skilled, disenchanted and disenfranchised baby-boomers. Those "French" people who saw their jobs and their relative prosperity go away thanks to globalization. In a way Sarkozy embraces the notion that somehow the specifically social problems of France are rooted in racial differences. To do such a turnabout, he has to forget and recast the very policies that his political side (the party of big business) championed back in the days. And by the way, the other side - Ségolène Royal - is desperately trying to placate the same chunk of voters. She is doing it somewhat differently - it's the left-wing version of racism : citizenship is a process, Republican values must be taught, and don't you dare wear that headscarf in the classroom!

So the election will be played out on the expanding fringes of the French political spectrum. Because now the French middle-class is also feeling the pressure of globalization. Diplomas ain't worth what they used to, government jobs are being privatized and hard work and dedication won't necessarily buy you that tract house. Those closest to the low-skilled fraction of the workforce are particularly anxious for their future (this was the whole point of the demonstrations in March 2006 around the reform of the standard employment contract). The French are learning the hard way that in the fabless zones of the global knowledge economy, your prospects are pretty bleak if you're not over-educated and well-connected. Basically, without a modicum of what sociologist Pierre Bourdieu called social capital, you are destined to service jobs and logistics.

It is entirely logical, and tactically correct for the big-business candidate to exploit and turn these anxieties into racial issues. It is a way to sidestep, confuse and redirect the debate away from a rational and realistic consideration of France's predicament. This is the same candidate who claims with a straight face that he will singlehandedly lower the exchange rate of the Euro versus the Dollar. The truth is he can't and he won't, and he would not if he could. Because at heart, Sarkozy is a free-marketer. Case in point : while spewing racially charged epithets and deliberately pitting anxious lower-class disaffected French citizens against one another, he also announces that he will abolish the inheritance tax. The tough-on-crime-and-brown-people cartoonish figure hides a supply-sider neo-liberal who will methodically reduce the State to its primary regalian functions: to police and imprison (the printing money part is long gone). We are pretty well acquainted with that type of politics in the US.

Finally, it is interesting to note the current change in the theme and rhetoric of the campaign. The abrupt resurgence of racial issues is probably tied to extensive and in-depth pollling (in both camps). I guess that they are both trying to woo Le Pen's voters. Sarkozy is more aggressive at the moment because rumor has it that the Interior Ministry secret polls put him and Royal within the margin of error. The same rumor suggests that Le Pen will call on his supporters to vote for Sarkozy - but since his base is notoriously fickle, it is crucial for Sarkozy to build up his petit-blanc, redneck credentials.

Both camps assume that the runoff will be a classic left-right showdown. They have calculated that there are more votes to gain from Le Pen than from any other candidates (such as Bayrou, whose constituents will most likely come home to Sarkozy). So this is their game plan for the runoff election.


Monday, April 2, 2007

La France and the good life (cont'd)

Let us dispel once and for all the notion that the good life is the exclusive province of the French. There are certain social arrangements, in France, that make it possible for a large proportion of the population to enjoy heavily discounted education, health care and decent retirement benefits. But is that the good life?

It's all a matter of proportions : if you live in Paris, have an advanced degree in something and come from an old family (i.e. that owns some real estate), then you're most likely to be fine. A French upper class professional probably makes significantly less money than her American counterpart. However, her kids will go for free to the best high schools in all of France (Louis-Legrand/Henri IV/Fénelon, all within a square kilometer on the Left Bank). They will then go on to attend a Grande Ecole, the French Harvard and Princeton and Columbia rolled into one neat little package. These vaunted Great Schools are also located, for the most part, on the Left Bank. Some are more expensive than others. For instance Sciences-Po is semi-private and charges something like 3000 euros a year. Pretty cheap for your entry ticket into the French governing elite. Some like the Ecole Normale Supérieure actually pays its students a full entry-level government job salary. So in the best case scenario, your kids will actually get significant money (at least for a 20 year-old) and lifetime job security if they manage to get into the equivalent of Harvard. Point is, in France, if you're rich, educated and live in Paris you're basically set.

Being from Paris is in fact crucial. What applies to educational institutions also applies to hospitals, museums, government and economic life. To my knowledge, France is the only country of such import that is that heavily centralized. This is a unique situation, which goes back centuries. Everything that really matters happens in Paris. The French economic, cultural and political elites live, work and play in Paris. Sure, they might temporarily migrate to the South or the West in the summer. But all in all, they overwhelmingly gravitate towards the City of Lights. Compare that to the US, where New York is the cultural and financial center, D.C. handles the government, LA does entertainment, San Francisco takes care of high-tech growth, Boston leads in education, etc, etc... In the same vein, France has no equivalent in Europe or Asia. Germany or Spain are proudly decentralized, and so are England and Italy. Even Turkey, that herald of Jacobin orthodoxy, balances between Ankara and Istanbul.

But let's go back to the question of the good life. France's centralization heavily determines who has access to the good life. The closer you are to the center, the cheaper it is to access the best schools, the best jobs, the best services, the best shopping, the best museums, the best theaters and the best hospitals. So yes, provided you are in Paris, you'll enjoy the good life, international-class, for a very modest cost. You'll be connected to the global cities, you'll be part of that other Internationale of decision-makers and opinion-makers and money-makers, and you'll live like a bourgeois new-yorker for a third of what it would take in New York City, LA, London or Kowloon. I suspect this is precisely what enrages so many American journalists.

Now, for the rest of France, I don't know. It's all very picturesque and charming, but would you ever want to live in Bitche or Gueret on the French median salary (about $1800 per month)? or worse, be treated for cancer there?... I didn't think so.

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Ahh, la France

I often get peeved by the way the mainstream media covers France. The US press falls for the usual memes : France is a quaint, faded power which is desperately hanging on to its archaic quirks, such as its supposedly high marginal taxe rate, its welfare state, smoke-filled cafés and five weeks of paid vacations (not to mention the outrageous 35-hours work week). And to top it off, they're rude and they hate McDonald's (and their President, for all his many faults, was right about Iraq)! Damn!

The other narrative is also about archaic quirks, but about their good side. I call it the Julia Childs complex - because Julia truly was America's Tocqueville. It's the romance of France, the great restaurateurs, the beautiful little towns, the truffles, the cheeses, the patisseries, the Charolais beef, the remarkable wines of Saint-Chinian or Vosne-Romanée - in short, the good life. France is this mostly imaginary place where the good life can be had. A place far, far away from all the little indignities and the constant, petty decisions - Blackberry of Treo? Coke or Pepsi? Stocks or bonds? Paper or plastic? Hillary or Obama? - that shape the life of the average upwardly mobile American professional. In France, everything is believed to be more authentic and more complicated, and therefore more refined. And so it becomes an object of both fear and desire for the practical-minded, yes-or-no Yankee, who cannot but be completely befuddled by the intricate ways of the French, and feel grossly inadequate as a result. France, in a way, serves as the mirror of what is lost or went missing in modern American life.

All this is at best a cartoon. And besides, it is well-known to anyone in the news biz that American journalists on foreign assignments tend to take their cues from the US Embassy. Because of longstanding editorial practices, they're not supposed to speak the language or to be too familiar with local culture and customs (lest they would develop a bias, or go native...) Hence, just like Judy Miller with WMDs, it's up to some pompous twit (Roger Cohen, Elaine Sciolino) to have the last word on France in the newspaper of record. And while they mostly rely on fixers for flavor, the overall story is always the same. Basically: those crazy, lazy, socialist Frenchmen have it so good now, but they can't adapt to global capitalism and their day of reckoning is fast approaching. That is, unless they finally elect a neo-liberal, big-business, right-wing "reformer" in the mold of Reagan or Dick "The Vice" Cheney. (Enters Nicolas Sarkozy...)

There is of course a sociological aspect to the production of such discourse : both writers and readers, its producers and consumers, seem to share in a deep resentment towards this imagined France. After all, they make so much more money than the average French, and yet... Well, think of Orange County : so many millionaires live in Orange County, and yet everything there is just ugly, standardized, and generally unpleasant. So unpleasant in fact that on a more fundamental level, it feels utterly impoverished. Take a quick peek at what passes for cultural life in the OC and you'll see what I mean. So what gives? You have all the money in the world and you still live like a chump, your fat ass glued to the driver's seat, tucked between freeways, office parks, stucco food courts and shopping centers. That's the whole point: the good life takes more than just money. The good life takes certain social arrangements that simply do not exist in the United States.

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